Land's End to John o'Groats
September 3 - 13 2003
For the Down's Syndrome Association
September 3 - 13 2003
For the Down's Syndrome Association
Tuesday September 2nd - Getting there...
After loading up the bike with panniers, front bag,water bottles etc., checking and re-checking everything, I cycled
to Birmingham New Street Station (about 40km) and boarded the train to Penzance (delayed, of course!). Two
cyclists on the train were going to Cornwall for a holiday;they wished me luck and donated £5. During the journey I
checked my route maps, and wondered what on earth the next days had in store for me! The weather forecast
wasn't bad, but rain was expected towards the weekend. Arrived in Penzance 2 hours later than scheduled, so
had to ride in the dark to my hotel at Sennen, near Land's End, with only emergency LED lights which were quite
useless for seeing where you are going. Quite scary at times!
to Birmingham New Street Station (about 40km) and boarded the train to Penzance (delayed, of course!). Two
cyclists on the train were going to Cornwall for a holiday;they wished me luck and donated £5. During the journey I
checked my route maps, and wondered what on earth the next days had in store for me! The weather forecast
wasn't bad, but rain was expected towards the weekend. Arrived in Penzance 2 hours later than scheduled, so
had to ride in the dark to my hotel at Sennen, near Land's End, with only emergency LED lights which were quite
useless for seeing where you are going. Quite scary at times!
Wednesday Sepember 3rd
Day 1 Sennen to Bude
Day 1 Sennen to Bude
Woke up early, had breakfast and
got to Land's End at about 8am. I
had my record sheet (supplied by the
Cyclist's Touring Club, of which I am
a member) stamped at the Land's
End Hotel, took a few photos and was
applauded on my way by a family on
holiday. It was a glorious sunny
morning and I was soon back in
Penzance, where I stopped to buy a
few provisions. I was reminded of my
previous End-to-End (back in 1986,
when I raised money for the Guide
Dogs for the Blind Association) and
of just how many hills there are in
Cornwall!
got to Land's End at about 8am. I
had my record sheet (supplied by the
Cyclist's Touring Club, of which I am
a member) stamped at the Land's
End Hotel, took a few photos and was
applauded on my way by a family on
holiday. It was a glorious sunny
morning and I was soon back in
Penzance, where I stopped to buy a
few provisions. I was reminded of my
previous End-to-End (back in 1986,
when I raised money for the Guide
Dogs for the Blind Association) and
of just how many hills there are in
Cornwall!
Although there are no really big mountains in this part of the British Isles, the terrain is nevertheless quite
strenuous for the cyclist, because the short, sharp climbs just keep coming at you! I was very glad of my 27
gears...Had lunch near Newquay; the weather was now fairly cloudy, with a light headwind from the north-east.
Somehow my camera had jammed, so I took it into a photography shop in Wadebridge where it was repaired in a
darkroom. Continued (more hills) to Bude, arrived at hotel at 7.40pm, pretty tired but pleased with my first day's
progress!
158km today 214km total
strenuous for the cyclist, because the short, sharp climbs just keep coming at you! I was very glad of my 27
gears...Had lunch near Newquay; the weather was now fairly cloudy, with a light headwind from the north-east.
Somehow my camera had jammed, so I took it into a photography shop in Wadebridge where it was repaired in a
darkroom. Continued (more hills) to Bude, arrived at hotel at 7.40pm, pretty tired but pleased with my first day's
progress!
158km today 214km total
Thursday September 4th Day 2 Bude to Taunton
Had breakfast; the landlady had very kindly given me a bottle of wine the night before (she obviously thought that
I needed it!) and made sandwiches for my lunch. I was soon tackling a big climb out of Bude, then due east to
Holsworthy where I got my record sheet stamped at the Post Office. More hills across Devon, had lunch in
Chawleigh churchyard. The weather was fabulous; warm sunshine but the wind was from the south-east
(headwind again). The prevailing wind in the British Isles is normally from the south-west...continued through
Devon; fantastic views with Dartmoor rising in the distance to Yes Tor on my right, Exmoor (Lorna Doone country)
to my left...lots of pcture-postcard villages with thatched rooves and cob walls, so typical of Devon. Crossed the
county boundary into Somerset, stopped for a much-needed mug of tea at Wellington. Arrived at my overnight
stop in Taunton at 7pm.
132km today 346km total
I needed it!) and made sandwiches for my lunch. I was soon tackling a big climb out of Bude, then due east to
Holsworthy where I got my record sheet stamped at the Post Office. More hills across Devon, had lunch in
Chawleigh churchyard. The weather was fabulous; warm sunshine but the wind was from the south-east
(headwind again). The prevailing wind in the British Isles is normally from the south-west...continued through
Devon; fantastic views with Dartmoor rising in the distance to Yes Tor on my right, Exmoor (Lorna Doone country)
to my left...lots of pcture-postcard villages with thatched rooves and cob walls, so typical of Devon. Crossed the
county boundary into Somerset, stopped for a much-needed mug of tea at Wellington. Arrived at my overnight
stop in Taunton at 7pm.
132km today 346km total
Friday September 5th Day 3 Taunton to Leominster
Woke up at 7am, had breakfast and was on the road at 8am. No hills today (yet!) and a south-easterly wind
(tailwind at last!). Stopped at Bridgwater and had my rear wheel checked at St.John Street Cycles. I had noticed
that the wheel had been slowly going out of true; this didn't at the time seem to be a serious problem. What did I
say about there being no hills? In no time I was climbing over the Mendips to the south of Bristol (near
Cheddar) having first had my record sheet stamped, also in Bridgwater. Brilliant descent into Bristol with views
towards I.K.Brunel's magnificent Clifton Suspension Bridge. Through Bristol city centre and onto the A4 under
the aforementioned Clifton Bridge. Memories flooding back - staying at the Clifton Bridge Hotel when Lee was
alive...Crossed the Severn Bridge (which is an experience in itself on a bike!) and continued north past
Chepstow to stop for tea at picturesque Tintern Abbey. The forecast rain duly arrived, so waterproofs on and I
continued to Monmouth. More memories of Lee, passing our erstwhile favourite watering-hole, the Punch
House (see sleeve notes, Feelgood Factor album). Happy days! More hills - big climb out of Monmouth, north
to Hereford (reached 50mph/80kph down one of the hills!). Continued to overnight stop at Leominster (one last
hill for the day to climb) and received very warm welcome with tea and biscuits at hotel; arrived 7.45pm.
183km today 529km total
(tailwind at last!). Stopped at Bridgwater and had my rear wheel checked at St.John Street Cycles. I had noticed
that the wheel had been slowly going out of true; this didn't at the time seem to be a serious problem. What did I
say about there being no hills? In no time I was climbing over the Mendips to the south of Bristol (near
Cheddar) having first had my record sheet stamped, also in Bridgwater. Brilliant descent into Bristol with views
towards I.K.Brunel's magnificent Clifton Suspension Bridge. Through Bristol city centre and onto the A4 under
the aforementioned Clifton Bridge. Memories flooding back - staying at the Clifton Bridge Hotel when Lee was
alive...Crossed the Severn Bridge (which is an experience in itself on a bike!) and continued north past
Chepstow to stop for tea at picturesque Tintern Abbey. The forecast rain duly arrived, so waterproofs on and I
continued to Monmouth. More memories of Lee, passing our erstwhile favourite watering-hole, the Punch
House (see sleeve notes, Feelgood Factor album). Happy days! More hills - big climb out of Monmouth, north
to Hereford (reached 50mph/80kph down one of the hills!). Continued to overnight stop at Leominster (one last
hill for the day to climb) and received very warm welcome with tea and biscuits at hotel; arrived 7.45pm.
183km today 529km total
Saturday September 6th Day 4 Leominster to Spurstow
Early start again; after a light breakfast I was on the road by 8.15am, cycling through rolling Herefordshire
countryside with lots of half-timbered black-and-white buildings. Then on into Shropshire and the lovely town of
Ludlow, with its picturesque weir and castle. I had my record sheet stamped here and stocked up with fresh bread
and fruit from the market. Continued north to Church Stretton A.E.Housman country near to the Clun Forest. The
Shropshire poet's words flashed through my mind:
"Clunton, Clunbury, Clungunford and Clun,
Are the quietest places under the sun".
On to Shrewsbury, with its English and Welsh bridges, and got caught in a sharp hailstorm where the temperature
seemed to plunge by about 10 degrees in a matter of seconds! Stopped in Whitchurch to buy waterproof
overtrousers (seemed like I might need them!). Continued on to my overnight stop at Richard Spencer's
farmhouse B&B at Spurstow, south of Warrington in Cheshire (very peaceful!). This is also near to Bunbury Mill,
which Phil, Robert and I had visited previously this year on our travels.
120km today 649km total
countryside with lots of half-timbered black-and-white buildings. Then on into Shropshire and the lovely town of
Ludlow, with its picturesque weir and castle. I had my record sheet stamped here and stocked up with fresh bread
and fruit from the market. Continued north to Church Stretton A.E.Housman country near to the Clun Forest. The
Shropshire poet's words flashed through my mind:
"Clunton, Clunbury, Clungunford and Clun,
Are the quietest places under the sun".
On to Shrewsbury, with its English and Welsh bridges, and got caught in a sharp hailstorm where the temperature
seemed to plunge by about 10 degrees in a matter of seconds! Stopped in Whitchurch to buy waterproof
overtrousers (seemed like I might need them!). Continued on to my overnight stop at Richard Spencer's
farmhouse B&B at Spurstow, south of Warrington in Cheshire (very peaceful!). This is also near to Bunbury Mill,
which Phil, Robert and I had visited previously this year on our travels.
120km today 649km total
St.Michael's Mount
Bedruthan Steps
Clifton Suspension Bridge
Severn Bridge
Monmouth
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End-to-End...
Images © Steve Walwyn 2003